Bouldering and Climbing

Rocklands covers a large semi-arid region in the northern Cederberg mountains, only 25kms from the nearest town, Clanwilliam, and around 250kms north of Cape Town.

Since at least the 1990s, Rocklands has become increasingly popular as a world-class climbing destination amongst the international climbing community, offering some of the top bouldering sites in the world. The main bouldering area for Rocklands can be accessed from a parking lot near the top of Pakhuis Pass, which offers widespread views over the distinctly rugged and craggy sandstone landscape. However, several accommodation spots on private farms have more recently started developing their own localised bouldering areas including de Pakhuys Farm, Alpha Excelsior Guest Farm and Traveller’s Rest. Some of these private climbing areas have a small day fee so please check with the relevant hosts before climbing these areas.

The distinct orange sandstone of Rocklands offers a wide variety of rock features and holds which make for particularly exceptional bouldering routes. The region is also known for some popular single-pitch sports and traditional climbing routes. With such varied rock formations, the climbing routes in Rocklands can range from very easy to some of the most difficult routes in the world which appeal to both beginner and professional climbers.

The Basics of Bouldering

Bouldering is one of three distinct rock-climbing practices, amongst sport climbing and traditional climbing. Although bouldering excludes the use of climbing aids (such as ropes and bolts), the height of bouldering routes is generally limited to around 8m whereas sports and traditional climbing routes include the support of climbing aids and are much higher.

The impact of inevitable falls in bouldering are minimised by foam crash pads and fellow climbers or “spotters” who help to support a fall from the base of the route. A bouldering “problem” refers to a route up a boulder that is solved through a combination of precise moves to reach the top. These problems are both physically and mentally demanding and call for a mix of strength, creativity, focus and more to solve.

Need-to-Knows for Climbing in Rocklands

Rocklands has become particularly famous for its thousands of bouldering problems scattered across the region. In addition to offering safe and secluded climbing, as well as many authentic accommodation spots in the area, it’s no wonder that Rocklands has become an international climbing hotspot in season.

Below are some essentials that climbers need to know about Rocklands before enjoying all that it has to offer

A valid climbing permit is required to climb in Rocklands, as of 2014. Climbing permits can be purchased online from Cape Nature, or in-person from three accommodation sites in the area, namely Cape Nature’s Kliphuis campsite office, de Pakhuys’ campsite office or Traveller’s Rest’s farmstall or restaurant.

Please note that landowners conduct regular permit inspections in the climbing areas and will ask anyone without a valid climbing permit to leave.

The climbing season takes place largely over the Southern Hemisphere’s winter, from roughly June till September. Over these winter months, daytime temperatures can reach a pleasant 20-24°C although the mornings and evenings are generally cold. Be prepared for sudden changes of weather in season by bringing warm and rainproof wear.

The summer months in Rocklands can be extremely hot, dry and windy, which deters most climbers from coming over this time of year.

There is a limited number of crash pads available for rent in Rocklands, so booking during season is a must. Both de Pakhuys and Kliphuis campsite offices have crash pads available for rent to anyone. The Alpha Excelsior Guest Farm only has a limited number of crash pads available and these are reserved for guests.

MTN is the only cellular service provider in the Rocklands area and therefore the only cellular network which allows calls, SMSs and cellular data access. Most accommodation options in Rocklands provide Wi-Fi to guests, although not all specific accommodation sites fall within the accommodation’s Wi-Fi areas. Alpha Excelsior’s Hen House restaurant and the farmstall and restaurant at Traveller’s Rest both offer free Wi-Fi coverage to customers and climbers.

As Rocklands has become an increasingly popular climbing destination, the social and ecological footprint of climbers has also increased in the area. In response, the Rocklands Association for Development (RAD) was formed in 2017 as a non-profit, civil society group made up of local Rocklands farm-owners, representatives from local communities as well as from local and global climbing communities. RAD strives to ensure the impact of climbing in Rocklands is both socially and ecologically positive.

Climbing in this Rocklands area is a privilege that requires collective respect and responsibility to ensure continued access and enjoyment for many years to come. Below are some climbing ethics outlined by RAD and fellow climbers to help build this collective consciousness in Rocklands and surrounds:

Protect Our Delicate Ecology

  1. Never cut trees or plants without permission and identification.
  2. Stick to the paths – this helps prevent erosion.
  3. Be mindful of vegetation. Pick up your crash pad – don’t drag it.
  4. Never stash crash pads on the land.
  5. Do not disturb or feed any wildlife.
  6. No fires.

Rock Art Is Sacred

  1. Never climb on or near rock art.
  2. Do not touch the art – it is water sensitive.
  3. The floorspace under rock art may contain artefacts – be mindful.

Leave Only Footprints

  1. Remove all trash – in fact, carry out more than you brought in!
  2. Brush excess chalk from holds and remove any chalk graffiti (Black Shadow boulder was closed due to graffiti!).
  3. No pof is allowed in Rocklands – the resin causes irreversible damage to the rock surface.
  4. Bush toilet guidelines:
    • Find a space far away from the boulders (not where others have been).
    • Dig a hole and bury your waste. If the ground is too hard, please carry it out with you and dispose at accommodation (Tea Garden was closed primarily because of unburied human waste which poses threat to wildlife populations).
    • Carry any toilet paper and sanitaryware out with you.

Further information about how you can contribute to the social and ecological upliftment of our beloved Rocklands can be found on the Rocklands Association for Development’s website at: http://rocklands.org.za/